header image 3

Appliance repair expert in Orange County, CA

Hi, my name is Gene, owner and operator of

Mr. Magic appliance repair company

I have been involved in the appliance repair business for over 30 years and for the last 17 years I’ve been servicing people in Orange County, CA.
From basic Whirlpool refrigerators to high-end Thermador ovens, you can expect professional diagnosis with a fair estimate and a quick, accurate repair. If you need a good and honest appliance technician, call me today


I service and repair all major appliances: Oven, Range, Cook Top, Microwave, Refrigerator, Dishwasher, Trash Compactor, Washer and Dryer.

I do work with appliances made by: Admiral, Amana, Bosch, Caloric, Dacor, Frigidaire, Fisher & Paykel, GE, Hotpoint, Jenn Air, Kitchen Aid, Magic Chef, Maytag, Roper, Kenmore, Sub Zero, Tappan, Thermador, Viking, and Whirlpool

For fast and professional appliance repair, call the expert today at



30 responses so far ↓

  • Mary Malone // Jun 9, 2013 at 2:12 pm

    I noticed you are the one answering problems with ice makers that won’t dispense ice. I posted a question on the appliance repair forum today as ziprweld1 with a GE Profile Artica. The lights on the panel on front of door works and the ice maker makes ice. The auger will move manually and it doesn’t look like the cup at the back is broken. When dispensing water it is sporadic, but when ice cubes or crushed is used, the light goes dim and nothing happens. Thank you.

  • Gene // Jun 10, 2013 at 6:23 pm

    Hello Mary.

    Thank you for the reply to my email I send you yesterday and the model number of your refrigerator. The power to the ice and water dispenser on the door and the auger motor for the ice dispenser inside the freezer is coming from the main control board which is located on the back of the refrigerator. The symptoms you described, especially dim light, are leading to a bad main control board. It comes with the installation instructions and it is not too difficult to replace it yourself.

    The main control board part number WR55X10942

    Good luck.Thank you for stopping by.
    Please keep me posted.

  • Mary Malone // Jun 11, 2013 at 6:47 am

    Thank you SO MUCH!!! Will order part & give it a try.

  • Tom Huebner // Nov 28, 2014 at 5:18 pm

    My oven won’t relight after reaching bake temperature,the igniter clicks,burner lights and igniter keeps clicking and burner goes out.If you cancel and restart it’s the same thing.So far I have replaced the igniter,temp.probe and the gas valve. Still the same situation!!!
    Someone please help I’m going nuts!

  • Gene // Nov 30, 2014 at 4:36 pm

    Hello Tom,

    In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

    Thank you for your question,

  • Tom // Nov 30, 2014 at 4:49 pm

    It’s a whirlpool wfg371lvq
    Thanks for your response gene

  • Gene // Nov 30, 2014 at 5:24 pm

    Hello Tom,
    Thank you for the model number.

    Remove the Bake burner and check the lighting holes (circled red on the attached picture). If there are only four holes then the Bake burner has to be replaced. If there are eight holes then you have to enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

    The new bake burner part number is 9758078
    You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

    Keep me posted.

  • Tom // Dec 1, 2014 at 6:41 am

    Hi gene. The holes were a number 50 drill so I opened th up to a number 49. It’s doing the same thing , ran and cycled for half hour and then nothing . I do have a spark module on order , do you think that’s it since it’s the next thing to replace that I haven’t?
    Thanks Tom

  • Gene // Dec 1, 2014 at 12:51 pm

    Hello Tom,

    You said you already tried to replace the igniter and the gas valve. Do you still have them installed? If not, put them in the place, check the wire between the igniter and the spark module and give it a try. If it will do the same, possible the spark module is the culprit. Just to make sure you did order the correct part, the part number for the spark module is W10331686.

    Good luck,

  • Tom // Dec 5, 2014 at 5:42 am

    Hi gene first of all thanks for your help!!! It did end up being the spark module. It actually showed signs I heat damage by two of the resisters on the PC board
    Again Thanks

  • Gene // Dec 5, 2014 at 4:45 pm

    You are welcome Tom.
    I’m glad you were able to fix it.

    Thank you for the feed back.

  • Steve Hall // Jan 1, 2015 at 1:16 pm

    Gene I have 2 questions. I have a frigidaire FEFL79HBA range that gave error F10. Cancel would not stop the beeping so I threw the breaker. Turned it back on and set temp back to 350 and it errored again. This was after several hours of Thanksgiving cooking. I decided to try it again before ordering parts. As long as we only use average cooking times there is no problem but last week the wife baked a ham then I roasted some chicken then made dressing…after several hours of using the oven it gave F10 again. So if we only use it for 30 minutes or an hour no errors but after a few hours (maybe 4 or more) it errors. What do you think it could be? Also we have a frigidaire front load washer and occasionally after starting a load of clothes when we come back to check the clothes we occasionally get an error that says “no water”. The clothes are partially washed and usually soaking wet with water. The only solution we have found is to restart the load. When I pull the detergent tray out some of the detergent is still in the tray and some water too. After we restart the load it will complete successfully. Any ideas on this one? I have googled no water and not found anything. Thanks in advance.

  • Gene // Jan 1, 2015 at 2:01 pm

    Hello Steve,

    Thank you for your questions.

    1. The F10 error code means the control senses runaway temperature. At the time, this error code appears unplug the range and remove the rear panel. Locate the P5 connection plug at the EOC and check the temperature probe by measuring the resistance between the wires connected to pins 14 & 15. With the oven temperature at about 350ºF normal reading should be about 1660 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, check the temperature probe wire harness. If there is nothing wrong, the temperature probe would need to be replaced.

    The temperature probe part number is 316490000.

    If the temperature probe tests OK, the EOC would need to be replaced.

    The EOC part number is 316418707.

    2. In regards to the second question, I need the complete model number of the washer.


  • Steve Hall // Jan 2, 2015 at 11:00 am

    Gene the model of the Frigidaire washer is FAFS4272LA0. Thank you so much.

  • Gene // Jan 3, 2015 at 8:27 pm

    Hello Steve,

    Thank you for the reply.
    Any error codes in your washer consists of letter “E” followed by two digits. Which error code did you get? If you are not sure, the last 5 error codes are stored in the memory. In order to recall them follow the instructions from the tech sheet and post the result:

    Press the “cancel” button to enter standby mode and enable diagnostic entry.
    Within 10 seconds after pressing “cancel”, press any button (except the cancel button) to wake up the control.
    Within 5 seconds of wake up, turn the selector knob to the far left cycle and press and hold the “cancel” and center button under the display simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter the Diagnostic Mode.
    Turn the program knob clockwise 9 turns (clicks) from the Start Position. The control will signal the last 5 error codes with E00 meaning no error experienced.

    To return the washer to normal operation unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then reconnect the power cord.


  • Steve Hall // Jan 5, 2015 at 11:23 am

    Gene I did this and the only code I get is E11 Water. Previously we had a code I do not recall which it was but it led me to do some meter measurements on the motor and possible issues were the motor and the control board. I did not like the readings I got on the motor so I did not trust my meter so I replaced both the motor and the control at that time. That has been quite a while now.

  • Lee // Jan 8, 2015 at 9:01 pm

    Hi Gene,

    I have a Whirlpool Gas Dryer that heats intermittently — after reading your comments I bought a set of coils. I have one question: My igniter was not lighting, but tested fine as did the thermal sensor, but I found when I plugged/unplugged the thermal sensor everything would work fine for a week or so. Hoping the coils do the trick!

    My model is :WGD9400SW1

  • Ron // Jan 9, 2015 at 9:18 pm

    Hi Gene,
    Have a poblem with my KitchenAid microwave oven, which I have traced to the monitor interlock switch. This one is a normally closed switch, and is supposed to be open (no continuity)when the door is closed. When I leave the wires connected to the switch and test for continuity, I have continuity through the switch whether the door is open or closed.
    Thinking the switch had gone bad, I removed the wires and tested the switch with no wires connected. In this case the switch acts as it should-(when the activator nub is pushed the switch opens just as it should). So the switch appears to not be bad.
    With the switch in place and connected normally, the microwave will not start running/heating. But when I disconnected one of the wires from the monitor interlock switch (as a test to substitute for the switch opening) the microwave WILL now start running and heating when I press start.

    So I gather that the switch itself is not bad but something else is wrong which involves the circuit through the switch. Any ideas?

  • Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 10:16 pm

    Hello Steve,

    Sony for the delay.

    E11 error code means “Fill time is too long”. Make sure the incoming water has a good pressure. You may want to start the troubleshooting from checking both fill hoses. Make sure they are not kinked or blocked. Shut off the water to the washer. Remove the fill hoses from the washer and check the screens. Clean them if needed. If this is not the issue, the water inlet valve assembly will need to be replaced.

    The water inlet valve assembly part number is 134637810

    Good luck.

  • Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 10:45 pm

    Hello Lee,

    Before we will proceed with troubleshooting I would like to verify which part did you call “thermal sensor”.

    Thank you,

  • Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 10:50 pm

    Hello Ron,

    Thank you for your question. In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the microwave.


  • Ron Salzman // Jan 13, 2015 at 5:57 am

    Hi Gene,

    Thanks for the reply. I figured out the problem; it turned out to be a bad connection at the door switch. (I had checked for continuity there earlier and it appeared OK, but the connection turned out to be very poor).


  • John Usedom // Mar 5, 2015 at 5:58 am


    Hello and thank you for all you do. Your site has provided me with great info over the years. Today however, I am stumped.

    I have a Kenmore(whirlpool) Gas Dryer that will not kick on the burner. I’ve replaced the flame sensor and coils and when that did not do it, I also replaced the igniter.

    Everything looks perfect – the dryer starts, the igniter glows and then after 4-5 seconds it goes out. A minute later the igniter kicks on again, and then after a few seconds, goes off.

    I’ve checked the gas line, the fittings, the tube attached to the igniter, etc. and cannot get a flame – your thoughts please?

  • Ronni Echevarria // Mar 6, 2015 at 5:19 pm

    I have a GE profile 27″ double wall oven, about 6 mos. old. Today, it started showing “Err”, no error #, just “Err.” I am in convection roast mode. Looked online at the manual, but there is nothing addressing this issue. Any ideas?

  • Gene // Mar 7, 2015 at 1:26 pm

    Hello Ronni.

    Thank you for your question.
    In order to provide most accurate advise I need the complete model number of the oven.

  • Gene // Mar 7, 2015 at 2:07 pm

    Hello John.

    Sorry for the delay.
    In order to provide most accurate advise I need the complete model number of the dryer.
    Thank you.

  • Mike Lang // Mar 17, 2015 at 6:40 pm

    Hi Gene,
    I have a Fridgeair Electrolux, Model PLEFZ398GCA. Recently I turned the oven on to bake and sparks shot out from behind. I removed the back upper panel and the bk/brl harness was fried. Have you came across situations similar to mine? If so, what would cause it to short? The EOC is burnt up at the plug end of the bk/brl harness. I am having trouble finding the part number for a new EOC and harness plug for the wires. Any help would be much appreciated.

  • Gene // Mar 18, 2015 at 12:12 am

    Hello Mike,

    Thank you for your question.

    I’ve seen a few of them. Probably it was overheated due to current higher than it should be. May be a loose contacts too.

    The part number for the EOC is 316462809

    The part number for the main control wire harness is 316466603

    You can try to fix the burned plugs by cutting off the damaged pieces and splicing in 1/4″ female fully insulated quick disconnects. Radioshack would help.

    Good luck. Keep me posted.


  • Shannan // Mar 29, 2015 at 7:35 am

    I have frigidaire oven that keeps throwing error code f10. We have replaced the probe and it still is doing it. My model number is feb30s7fcb. I have been told two different things. One is an EOC and the other is an assembly control panel. Please help.

  • Gene // Mar 29, 2015 at 5:25 pm

    Hello Shannan,

    Thank you for your question.

    This error code means that the control has sensed a runaway temperature. If it appears while the oven was in a day time mode, then the EOC has failed. No doubt about it. Especially because you already replaced the temperature probe. The only correction is to replace the EOC.

    The part number for the EOC is 316418523

    As of now the part is on back order. To find the ETA you can call customer service at 877-477-7278.

    Good luck.

    Keep me posted.


Leave a Comment