AskGene.com

AskGene.com header image 3

Appliance repair expert in Orange County, CA

Hi, my name is Gene, owner and operator of

Mr. Magic appliance repair company

I have been involved in the appliance repair business for over 30 years and for the last 17 years I’ve been servicing people in Orange County, CA.
From basic Whirlpool refrigerators to high-end Thermador ovens, you can expect professional diagnosis with a fair estimate and a quick, accurate repair. If you need a good and honest appliance technician, call me today

 714-309-9221

I service and repair all major appliances: Oven, Range, Cook Top, Microwave, Refrigerator, Dishwasher, Trash Compactor, Washer and Dryer.

I do work with appliances made by: Admiral, Amana, Bosch, Caloric, Dacor, Frigidaire, Fisher & Paykel, GE, Hotpoint, Jenn Air, Kitchen Aid, Magic Chef, Maytag, Roper, Kenmore, Sub Zero, Tappan, Thermador, Viking, and Whirlpool

For fast and professional appliance repair, call the expert today at

714-309-9221

115 Comments

115 responses so far ↓

  • Mary Malone // Jun 9, 2013 at 2:12 pm

    I noticed you are the one answering problems with ice makers that won’t dispense ice. I posted a question on the appliance repair forum today as ziprweld1 with a GE Profile Artica. The lights on the panel on front of door works and the ice maker makes ice. The auger will move manually and it doesn’t look like the cup at the back is broken. When dispensing water it is sporadic, but when ice cubes or crushed is used, the light goes dim and nothing happens. Thank you.

  • Gene // Jun 10, 2013 at 6:23 pm

    Hello Mary.

    Thank you for the reply to my email I send you yesterday and the model number of your refrigerator. The power to the ice and water dispenser on the door and the auger motor for the ice dispenser inside the freezer is coming from the main control board which is located on the back of the refrigerator. The symptoms you described, especially dim light, are leading to a bad main control board. It comes with the installation instructions and it is not too difficult to replace it yourself.

    The main control board part number WR55X10942

    Good luck.Thank you for stopping by.
    Please keep me posted.
    Gene.

  • Mary Malone // Jun 11, 2013 at 6:47 am

    Thank you SO MUCH!!! Will order part & give it a try.

  • Tom Huebner // Nov 28, 2014 at 5:18 pm

    My oven won’t relight after reaching bake temperature,the igniter clicks,burner lights and igniter keeps clicking and burner goes out.If you cancel and restart it’s the same thing.So far I have replaced the igniter,temp.probe and the gas valve. Still the same situation!!!
    Someone please help I’m going nuts!

  • Gene // Nov 30, 2014 at 4:36 pm

    Hello Tom,

    In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the oven.

    Thank you for your question,
    Gene.

  • Tom // Nov 30, 2014 at 4:49 pm

    It’s a whirlpool wfg371lvq
    Thanks for your response gene

  • Gene // Nov 30, 2014 at 5:24 pm

    Hello Tom,
    Thank you for the model number.

    Remove the Bake burner and check the lighting holes (circled red on the attached picture). If there are only four holes then the Bake burner has to be replaced. If there are eight holes then you have to enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

    The new bake burner part number is 9758078
    You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

    Keep me posted.
    Gene.

  • Tom // Dec 1, 2014 at 6:41 am

    Hi gene. The holes were a number 50 drill so I opened th up to a number 49. It’s doing the same thing , ran and cycled for half hour and then nothing . I do have a spark module on order , do you think that’s it since it’s the next thing to replace that I haven’t?
    Thanks Tom

  • Gene // Dec 1, 2014 at 12:51 pm

    Hello Tom,

    You said you already tried to replace the igniter and the gas valve. Do you still have them installed? If not, put them in the place, check the wire between the igniter and the spark module and give it a try. If it will do the same, possible the spark module is the culprit. Just to make sure you did order the correct part, the part number for the spark module is W10331686.

    Good luck,
    Gene.

  • Tom // Dec 5, 2014 at 5:42 am

    Hi gene first of all thanks for your help!!! It did end up being the spark module. It actually showed signs I heat damage by two of the resisters on the PC board
    Again Thanks
    Tom

  • Gene // Dec 5, 2014 at 4:45 pm

    You are welcome Tom.
    I’m glad you were able to fix it.

    Thank you for the feed back.
    Gene.

  • Steve Hall // Jan 1, 2015 at 1:16 pm

    Gene I have 2 questions. I have a frigidaire FEFL79HBA range that gave error F10. Cancel would not stop the beeping so I threw the breaker. Turned it back on and set temp back to 350 and it errored again. This was after several hours of Thanksgiving cooking. I decided to try it again before ordering parts. As long as we only use average cooking times there is no problem but last week the wife baked a ham then I roasted some chicken then made dressing…after several hours of using the oven it gave F10 again. So if we only use it for 30 minutes or an hour no errors but after a few hours (maybe 4 or more) it errors. What do you think it could be? Also we have a frigidaire front load washer and occasionally after starting a load of clothes when we come back to check the clothes we occasionally get an error that says “no water”. The clothes are partially washed and usually soaking wet with water. The only solution we have found is to restart the load. When I pull the detergent tray out some of the detergent is still in the tray and some water too. After we restart the load it will complete successfully. Any ideas on this one? I have googled no water and not found anything. Thanks in advance.

  • Gene // Jan 1, 2015 at 2:01 pm

    Hello Steve,

    Thank you for your questions.

    1. The F10 error code means the control senses runaway temperature. At the time, this error code appears unplug the range and remove the rear panel. Locate the P5 connection plug at the EOC and check the temperature probe by measuring the resistance between the wires connected to pins 14 & 15. With the oven temperature at about 350ºF normal reading should be about 1660 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, check the temperature probe wire harness. If there is nothing wrong, the temperature probe would need to be replaced.

    The temperature probe part number is 316490000.

    If the temperature probe tests OK, the EOC would need to be replaced.

    The EOC part number is 316418707.

    2. In regards to the second question, I need the complete model number of the washer.

    Gene.

  • Steve Hall // Jan 2, 2015 at 11:00 am

    Gene the model of the Frigidaire washer is FAFS4272LA0. Thank you so much.

  • Gene // Jan 3, 2015 at 8:27 pm

    Hello Steve,

    Thank you for the reply.
    Any error codes in your washer consists of letter “E” followed by two digits. Which error code did you get? If you are not sure, the last 5 error codes are stored in the memory. In order to recall them follow the instructions from the tech sheet and post the result:

    Press the “cancel” button to enter standby mode and enable diagnostic entry.
    Within 10 seconds after pressing “cancel”, press any button (except the cancel button) to wake up the control.
    Within 5 seconds of wake up, turn the selector knob to the far left cycle and press and hold the “cancel” and center button under the display simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter the Diagnostic Mode.
    Turn the program knob clockwise 9 turns (clicks) from the Start Position. The control will signal the last 5 error codes with E00 meaning no error experienced.

    To return the washer to normal operation unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then reconnect the power cord.

    Gene.

  • Steve Hall // Jan 5, 2015 at 11:23 am

    Gene I did this and the only code I get is E11 Water. Previously we had a code I do not recall which it was but it led me to do some meter measurements on the motor and possible issues were the motor and the control board. I did not like the readings I got on the motor so I did not trust my meter so I replaced both the motor and the control at that time. That has been quite a while now.

  • Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 10:16 pm

    Hello Steve,

    Sony for the delay.

    E11 error code means “Fill time is too long”. Make sure the incoming water has a good pressure. You may want to start the troubleshooting from checking both fill hoses. Make sure they are not kinked or blocked. Shut off the water to the washer. Remove the fill hoses from the washer and check the screens. Clean them if needed. If this is not the issue, the water inlet valve assembly will need to be replaced.

    The water inlet valve assembly part number is 134637810

    Good luck.
    Gene.

  • Lee // Jan 8, 2015 at 9:01 pm

    Hi Gene,

    I have a Whirlpool Gas Dryer that heats intermittently — after reading your comments I bought a set of coils. I have one question: My igniter was not lighting, but tested fine as did the thermal sensor, but I found when I plugged/unplugged the thermal sensor everything would work fine for a week or so. Hoping the coils do the trick!

    My model is :WGD9400SW1

  • Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 10:45 pm

    Hello Lee,

    Before we will proceed with troubleshooting I would like to verify which part did you call “thermal sensor”.

    Thank you,
    Gene.

  • Ron // Jan 9, 2015 at 9:18 pm

    Hi Gene,
    Have a poblem with my KitchenAid microwave oven, which I have traced to the monitor interlock switch. This one is a normally closed switch, and is supposed to be open (no continuity)when the door is closed. When I leave the wires connected to the switch and test for continuity, I have continuity through the switch whether the door is open or closed.
    Thinking the switch had gone bad, I removed the wires and tested the switch with no wires connected. In this case the switch acts as it should-(when the activator nub is pushed the switch opens just as it should). So the switch appears to not be bad.
    With the switch in place and connected normally, the microwave will not start running/heating. But when I disconnected one of the wires from the monitor interlock switch (as a test to substitute for the switch opening) the microwave WILL now start running and heating when I press start.

    So I gather that the switch itself is not bad but something else is wrong which involves the circuit through the switch. Any ideas?

  • Gene // Jan 12, 2015 at 10:50 pm

    Hello Ron,

    Thank you for your question. In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the microwave.

    Gene.

  • Ron Salzman // Jan 13, 2015 at 5:57 am

    Hi Gene,

    Thanks for the reply. I figured out the problem; it turned out to be a bad connection at the door switch. (I had checked for continuity there earlier and it appeared OK, but the connection turned out to be very poor).

    -Ron

  • John Usedom // Mar 5, 2015 at 5:58 am

    Gene,

    Hello and thank you for all you do. Your site has provided me with great info over the years. Today however, I am stumped.

    I have a Kenmore(whirlpool) Gas Dryer that will not kick on the burner. I’ve replaced the flame sensor and coils and when that did not do it, I also replaced the igniter.

    Everything looks perfect – the dryer starts, the igniter glows and then after 4-5 seconds it goes out. A minute later the igniter kicks on again, and then after a few seconds, goes off.

    I’ve checked the gas line, the fittings, the tube attached to the igniter, etc. and cannot get a flame – your thoughts please?

  • Gene // Mar 7, 2015 at 2:07 pm

    Hello John.

    Sorry for the delay.
    In order to provide most accurate advise I need the complete model number of the dryer.
    Thank you.
    Gene.

  • Ronni Echevarria // Mar 6, 2015 at 5:19 pm

    I have a GE profile 27″ double wall oven, about 6 mos. old. Today, it started showing “Err”, no error #, just “Err.” I am in convection roast mode. Looked online at the manual, but there is nothing addressing this issue. Any ideas?

  • Gene // Mar 7, 2015 at 1:26 pm

    Hello Ronni.

    Thank you for your question.
    In order to provide most accurate advise I need the complete model number of the oven.
    Gene.

  • Mike Lang // Mar 17, 2015 at 6:40 pm

    Hi Gene,
    I have a Fridgeair Electrolux, Model PLEFZ398GCA. Recently I turned the oven on to bake and sparks shot out from behind. I removed the back upper panel and the bk/brl harness was fried. Have you came across situations similar to mine? If so, what would cause it to short? The EOC is burnt up at the plug end of the bk/brl harness. I am having trouble finding the part number for a new EOC and harness plug for the wires. Any help would be much appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Mike

  • Gene // Mar 18, 2015 at 12:12 am

    Hello Mike,

    Thank you for your question.

    I’ve seen a few of them. Probably it was overheated due to current higher than it should be. May be a loose contacts too.

    The part number for the EOC is 316462809

    The part number for the main control wire harness is 316466603

    You can try to fix the burned plugs by cutting off the damaged pieces and splicing in 1/4″ female fully insulated quick disconnects. Radioshack would help.

    Good luck. Keep me posted.

    Gene.

  • John Usedom // Mar 18, 2015 at 5:59 am

    Gene,

    Sorry for slow response – just noticed your 3/7 response this morning.

    We have a Kenmore – 110.77522600
    Ser MU2106873
    Type: DWJR-NAT-1206006-FM22

    Should have mentioned in original message that it had been sitting in storage for about 9 months.

    Original Message:

    Hello and thank you for all you do. Your site has provided me with great info over the years. Today however, I am stumped.
    I have a Kenmore(whirlpool) Gas Dryer that will not kick on the burner. I’ve replaced the flame sensor and coils and when that did not do it, I also replaced the igniter.
    Everything looks perfect – the dryer starts, the igniter glows and then after 4-5 seconds it goes out. A minute later the igniter kicks on again, and then after a few seconds, goes off.
    I’ve checked the gas line, the fittings, the tube attached to the igniter, etc. and cannot get a flame – your thoughts please?

  • Shannan // Mar 29, 2015 at 7:35 am

    Gene,
    I have frigidaire oven that keeps throwing error code f10. We have replaced the probe and it still is doing it. My model number is feb30s7fcb. I have been told two different things. One is an EOC and the other is an assembly control panel. Please help.

  • Gene // Mar 29, 2015 at 5:25 pm

    Hello Shannan,

    Thank you for your question.

    This error code means that the control has sensed a runaway temperature. If it appears while the oven was in a day time mode, then the EOC has failed. No doubt about it. Especially because you already replaced the temperature probe. The only correction is to replace the EOC.

    The part number for the EOC is 316418523

    As of now the part is on back order. To find the ETA you can call AppliancePartsPros.com customer service at 877-477-7278.

    Good luck.

    Keep me posted.

    Gene.

  • John Usedom // Apr 1, 2015 at 2:56 pm

    Gene,

    Sorry to bother you again, but do you have any ideas on the Kenmore dryer situation I posted?

  • Gene // Apr 1, 2015 at 7:40 pm

    Hello John,

    Sorry for the delay.

    It looks to me like this problem is related to restricted air flow. Disconnect the vent hose on the back of the dryer and give it a try. Make sure the lint screen is absolutely clean. You also may want to remove the rear panel and the blower wheel cover (lint chute) and clean it as well.

    How far and where the dryer vent goes? If it goes on top of the roof then it’s definitely needs good professional cleaning. If it goes through a wall, make sure the vent hood is not clogged.

    Let me know the result please.

    Gene.

  • Ray // Apr 4, 2015 at 9:06 am

    Gene,

    I posted yesterday April 3, 2015 but the posting seemed to have disappeared.

    I have the same exact problem as John Usedom above in that a 1 and 1/2 year stored gas dryer is not flaming(Roper RGX3514PQ0).

    The igniter glows, the radiant sensor has continuity, the coil set has been changed (old ones were in resistance specs). The entire power circuit has continuity, the exhaust duct is disconnected.

    1. It just seems like the gas valve is internally stuck, would a shock tapping loosen it?

    2. Does the valve stems rise above the coils when in the open position?

    3. When the gas valve opens does it make a clicking sound?

    4. Is it possible that the radiant sensor is not opening to activate the coils?

    To John Usedom, did you get the situation sloved?

  • Gene // Apr 5, 2015 at 10:23 pm

    Hello Ray,

    Thank you for your question.
    Somehow I missed your previous post. Sorry about that.

    1. I do not think any tapping will fix the problem.
    2. The answer is no.
    3. The clicking sound comes from a cycling thermostat. The gas valve does not make it.
    4. If the igniter goes off then the radiant sensor works properly.

    Based on your description, most likely the cause of the problem is a faulty gas valve. The gas valve is not serviceable and the only solution to fix this problem is to replace the gas valve. The new gas valve comes as assembly and you can order it from AppliancePartsPros.com for $180.31. Before you will make decision to fix it or to get a new dryer (the part is pretty expensive) I would suggest to verify the proper dryer connection to gas line and make sure the gas shut off valve behind the dryer is completely open.

    The part number for the gas valve assembly is 8318277

    Good luck.

    Keep me posted.

    Gene.

  • John Usedom // Apr 6, 2015 at 8:54 am

    Ray,

    Still no luck here and I can confirm that using “gentle persuasion” did not make any difference. Looks like were getting a new dryer as the part and shipping makes it about 50% of the cost of a new dryer.

    Thanks again for the info Gene and for your site.

  • Ray // Apr 7, 2015 at 7:24 am

    Point of information John,

    I located a “refurbished” gas valve where the seller says they replace the coils, and check under gas the operation of the valve at $70 with free shipping. Additionally I found a new valve for $150 with free shipping as opposed to the $180 above.

    I am looking at the possibility of jumping the door switch and activating the valve after heating with a heat gun to see if anything happens.

  • Gene // Apr 7, 2015 at 12:57 pm

    Hello Ray,

    A refurbished gas valve sounds to me very suspicious. I would check the warranty before placing the order. More likely I will go with the new part for $150 but still verify the warranty first. With AppliancePartsPros.com, even paying more, you have 365 days for return.

    Using a heat gun on a gas part is absolutely bad idea.

    Gene.

  • william // Apr 7, 2015 at 12:45 pm

    Hi Gene;

    We talked on phone today. Thank you for this option to diagnose. I have a combo in wall Kitchenaid SuperBa oven/microwave. Probably 15 years old or so. The oven no longer turns off and continues to heat. Only way to shut down is with breaker outside. My internet research points to control module or pad issues with the cancel/off button.

    The model of the oven is :KEMS377DBS6. I have seen replacement module from $400-600 online. Can you point me in the right direction? Should we replace the unit or do you think its time to get new oven?

    Also, I assume the module is pretty much plug and play….remove it and swap wires and plug in new module?

  • Gene // Apr 7, 2015 at 1:27 pm

    Hello William,

    Thank you for your question.

    Most likely the cause of the problem is a power relay contacts welded together. All relays are integrated into the control board. Thus the solution is to replace the control board. The part is really expensive. You can order it from AppliancePartsPros.com for $451.08. A new 27″ oven/microwave combination will cost you over two grands + delivery and installation. I believe it’s better if the decision would be made by the chef.

    The part number for the control board is 4448869

    Keep me posted.

    Gene.

  • william // Apr 7, 2015 at 2:17 pm

    Thank you Gene for followup. Since appliance pros allows no-risk returns, I went ahead and purchased and will get my fingers dirty. Will let you know if that was the fix.

    Also, assume replacing this module not too technical… thanks

  • Bryan // Apr 19, 2015 at 9:56 am

    I have a Whirlpool gas Dryer GGW9200LW0. That fires up only when cold and then runs fine but no heat. I replaced the thermister about a year ago. I pulled apart the dryer and cleaned the lint etc. and exhaust line. (I do this once a year) my guess in order ..Gas Valve Coil Kit, igniter, flame sensor ? I ran diagnostic on control panel and It says 39 or maybe it means 3G

  • Gene // Apr 23, 2015 at 10:21 pm

    Hello Bryan,

    Sorry for the delay.

    You are on the right track. Most likely the gas valve coil kit will fix the problem.

    The part number for the coil kit is 279834

    Good luck.

    Gene.

  • Valerie // Apr 22, 2015 at 8:30 am

    Hi Gene,
    My front left burner on my electrolux range has failed, but only the center burner, not the outer 2nd or 3rd rings. The serial number for my range is CEW30ef6gsc. Last time when I trouble shot myself, I ordered the wrong board, lol, but you helped me get the right one. So, is it the burner that I need to replace? I was surprised that on the inner ring quit working, is this typical?
    Thanks!
    Valerie

  • Gene // Apr 23, 2015 at 9:43 pm

    Hello Valerie,

    Thank you for your question. I’m glad to help you again.

    Very likely the heating element for this burner would need to be replaced but, because the part is really expensive, you may want to check the central coil for continuity prior to order the new part. If there is no continuity, the heating element is the culprit.

    The part number for the triple heating element is 316216703

    Good luck.

    Keep me posted.

    Gene.

  • Kyle // Apr 27, 2015 at 5:23 pm

    Hi Gene,
    I have a Kenmore model 106.56179500 refrigerator that I replaced the ice maker in, and it still isn’t making ice. Water won’t even run into the tray. The LED is blinking twice then pauses. I checked the rubber tube and it is not frozen. Also I still have water to the door. Could this be the water control valve? Could I switch water lines to test this.

  • Gene // May 4, 2015 at 8:59 pm

    Hello Kyle,

    Sorry for the delay.

    You may want to perform the following troubleshooting:

    1.Open the freezer door and watch the status LED on the right side. It should flash twice, pause for 1 second, and repeat the cycle for as long as the door is open.
    2.Close the flapper door on the emitter module (left side) so that the infrared beam has a clear path to the receiver board.
    3.Make sure that the door switch is not pushed in and the ice maker manual shut off slide
    is in the “ON” position, and view the status LED.

    If it’s not On steady, the optic boards would need to be replaced. If it is steady, let me know and we will proceed with further diagnostics.

    The part number for the optic boards set is w10757851

    Good luck.
    Gene.

  • mary // May 10, 2015 at 8:56 am

    Hi gene… I am having a problem with my he electric stove. My husband went and opened it up and cleaned everything out with contact cleaner well that killed the control panel for the oven and through an f7 code. We ordered a new control panel got that fixed but now realize that only 1 of 4 burners work… Its a flat top stove.. What could it be?? Model#j bp660 m4bb

  • Gene // May 10, 2015 at 8:42 pm

    Hello Mary,

    Thank you for your question.

    The model number you sent , does not come up. Please verify and resend it. Also what is the part number of the control panel you replaced?

    Thank you,
    Gene.

  • Damien Austin // May 22, 2015 at 3:17 pm

    Hi Gene,

    Hope you can help.

    I have an Electrolux double oven model EW30EW65GS1 that will not heat to full temp. If I set it at 350F and let it run it will take along time and only get to approx 270F . This is true of both top and bottom ovens on all settings, bake, broil and convection. I have replaced both the control board and relay board resulting in the same outcome. Oven was working fine before being removed from cabinet for a kitchen remodel. Everything else on oven works fine i.e. lights, fans etc. so after studying the schematic that would tell me that L1 and L2 and neutral are connected back up correctly. I am technically pretty smart but this one has me stumped. What is the common denominator here?

  • Gene // May 23, 2015 at 4:40 pm

    Hello Damien.

    Thank you for your question.

    Remove the power to the oven by turning off the oven circuit breakers. Access the relay board and check the upper and lower ovens bake elements. Label the wires connected to the P1, P2, P9 and P10 terminals to assure proper reconnection and remove them. Check for continuity between the wires connected to P1 & P9 terminals. Then do the same for the wires connected to P2 & P10 terminals. If there is no continuity, remove the oven from the cabinet. Remove the rear panel for each oven. Locate the thermal switches (one for each oven) with a red button in the center of the switch. Remove the wires from the thermal switch terminals and check each switch for continuity. If there is no continuity, try to reset the switch by pushing the button. If it did not help, the thermal switch would need to be replaced. They both are identical with the same part number.

    The part number for the thermal switch is 318004902

    Good luck.

    Keep me posted.

    Gene.

  • Damien Austin // May 25, 2015 at 5:26 pm

    Update,

    Did what you said and got continuity (15-25 ohms) across all six elements top and bottom oven measuring at the relay board, so at this point I know the thermal cutouts are good. Studied the schematic a little more and took voltage measurements across one element while powered on and got 120v, should be 240v. I did measure 240v on the relay board but it was across one leg to neutral. Long story short, I checked my wire connections at the jbox on wall and found the neutral connected to one leg of the 240v. The wires running from breaker box to the jbox consist of a ground and three black wires, no white. One of the black wires was being used as a neutral and I had connected it to the wrong black wire. Looking back I should have confirmed which black wire was L1, L2 and neutral before making the connection.

    Thanks for the help!

    Damien.

  • Gene // May 27, 2015 at 4:30 pm

    Hello Damien.

    I’m gad you were able to find and fix the problem. Good job!

    Thank you for the feed back.

    Gene.

  • Tracy Smith // Jun 2, 2015 at 10:25 am

    Hi Gene,

    I have a GE Spectra convection oven. I convection-baked at 450F this morning and on turning off the oven it began non-stop beeping while displaying “FO”.

    I immediately began looking online for what to do and came across a suggestion of pressing “BAKE” and “BROIL” buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. The panel buttons were unresponsive.

    I went back to my computer to search for help again and was away from the oven for several minutes. When I returned it was displaying “F7” rather than “FO” so I tried the buttons again and BAKE/BROIL at same time worked to stop the beeping.

    I believe it’s probably a control panel problem but only guess that from what I had read. The model # is J B960T0B1WW.

    My husband said we should probably just scrap it and buy a new oven but if you have advice that might be less expensive I’m eager to hear it.

    Thank you so much!
    Tracy

  • Gene // Jun 2, 2015 at 5:19 pm

    Hello Tracy.

    Thank you for your question.

    If this “F7” failure code can not be canceled by pressing the “Clear Off” button, then most likely the ERC would need to be replaced.

    The part number for the ERC is wb27t10216

    You can order the part by clicking on the part number.

    Good luck.
    Gene.

  • Tracy Smith // Jun 2, 2015 at 5:34 pm

    Thank you Gene!

    Your advice is so thorough and helpful!!!

    Best, Tracy

  • Ray // Jun 2, 2015 at 6:12 pm

    Hi Gene,

    I have an ice making problem. My KitchenAid Mod#KSRG25FKSS04, is getting no power to the ice maker. I changed the ice maker and dual water valves before I realized it’s getting no power at the ice maker harness. Any ideas what may be causing this?

    Thanks for your help,
    Ray

  • Gene // Jun 3, 2015 at 3:19 pm

    Hello Ray.

    Thank you for your question.

    Open the freezer door and watch the status LED on the left side. It should flash twice, pause for 1 second, and repeat the cycle for as long as the door is open. Then close the flapper door on the left side. The status LED should be on steady. If it’s still flashing, the optic PC boards would need to be replaced.

    The part number for the optic PC boards kit is w10757851

    Good luck.

    Gene.

  • Ray // Jun 3, 2015 at 4:21 pm

    Gene,

    Yes, the status LED is working normally 2 flashes repeated and on steady when uninterrupted.

    What’s next?

    Thanks,

    Ray

  • Gene // Jun 3, 2015 at 5:05 pm

    Ray,

    You said:”I realized it’s getting no power at the ice maker harness”. How did you find it?

    Gene.

  • Ray // Jun 3, 2015 at 5:13 pm

    Gene,

    Thanks for the quick response!

    I checked the harness coming out of the interior freezer wall with a voltage meter. I made sure light switch and ice fill door were in steady light beam mode when I checked. I also checked for power in every two wire configuration. No power to harness.

    Ray

  • Gene // Jun 3, 2015 at 6:21 pm

    Ray,

    Unplug the refrigerator. Pull out both optic PC boards. Remove the black and yellow wires connected to the receiver (large board) terminals and the white wire connected to the emitter (small board) terminal. Make sure no one wire is touching each other or anything else. Restore the power to the refrigerator. Open the freezer door and tape in the light switch. Tape in the flapper door. Close the freezer door for at least 10 sec. Open the freezer door and check the voltage between the white & black wires. Then check the voltage between the yellow and white wires. Send me the results please.

    Gene.

  • Ray // Jun 4, 2015 at 9:20 am

    Gene,

    I did as instructed. Voltage between white and black wires is 120VAC. The voltage between yellow and white is 0, nothing.

    An interesting observation. The large optic board had a small black soot mark just below where the wiring harness contacts are on the board itself. Also the interior wall of the freezer, where large optic board rests, had a black soot/burn mark on it also. Maybe something burned out on the large optic board?

    Ray

  • Gene // Jun 6, 2015 at 3:26 pm

    Hi Ray,

    Sorry for the delay.

    The black marks on the optic board are very suspicious. I would suggest to replace it. Both boards are coming as the kit. The part number for the kit I provided earlier.

    Zero voltage between the yellow and white wires while the light switch was taped in close position, shows that the light switch has failed. It would need to be replaced as well.

    The part number for the light switch is 12466114

    Good luck.

    Keep me updated please.

    Gene.

  • Ray // Jun 7, 2015 at 11:15 am

    Gene,

    I ordered the optic board kit the day I found the burn marks and it arrived yesterday. I installed the boards last night and this morning I had ice!

    I need to adjust the water flow to completely fill the ice maker but other than that, you did it! Thank you so very much for your help and advice.

    A note to others who may find themselves in the same situation; check the ohms across the valve terminals on the back of fridge. One of mine was showing zero, had to replace it, check the optic board circuitry visually! Mine showed the correct steady red light and 2 flashes per second yet was no good and visually burned out.

    Gene, as for the light switch, the light goes on and off in the freezer and the ice maker is now working. Should I bother with changing the switch? What would I see if it is indeed burned out?

    Thank you again,

    Ray

  • Gene // Jun 18, 2015 at 2:49 pm

    Hi Ray,

    Sorry for the delay.

    I’m glad you were able to fix it. Good job!

    Do not worry about the light switch if it’s working normally.

    Thank you for your good words and the feedback.

    Best regards,
    Gene.

  • Barry // Jun 12, 2015 at 10:25 pm

    Hi, Gene,

    I have a Kitchenaid KSF26C4XYY02 refrigerator. Two to three months back, the ice maker stopped working. The water dispenser still worked fine. The ice maker LED shows no status lights at all now–none when door is opened, ice bin is lowered, etc. I’m assuming I either need to replace the whole ice maker or get a motor rebuild kit?

    More recently, the refrigerator side has started running very cold, freezing nearly everything solid. Nothing significant has changed with the fridge. It is not overly full, nothing blocking back edge or upper vents and do forth. Does this sound like a faulty thermistor?

    Please advise.

    Thanks,

    Barry

  • Gene // Jun 18, 2015 at 4:16 pm

    Hello Barry,

    Sorry for the delay.

    If you still having this problem with the ice maker, please redo the test.

    Open the freezer door and view the status LED. If it’s off, press in the emitter flapper door and view the LED again. If it’s still off, the receiver board would need to be replaced. If it pulses on and off, both receiver and emitter boards would need to be replaced.

    The part number for the receiver board is w10518658

    The part number for the emitter board is w10518659

    In regards of the refrigerator temperature problem you will need to run the refrigerator in service diagnostic mode (first 7 steps) as described it the tech sheet which can be found behind the bottom grille. Let me know the results and we will proceed further. If the tech sheet is missing, let me know and I”ll provide the instructions for you.

    Good luck.

    Thank you for your question.

    Gene.

  • James // Jun 14, 2015 at 2:10 pm

    Gene, I hope you can help me. I have a kitchen aid model kgrs807sss00, range. My bake nor broil does not work. I recently replaced both igniters, and it worked intermittently for a day. Now nothing again. I have 0.9 ohms on the new igniters, 0 ohms of resistance on the thermal fuse, and 204 oms of resistance on both solonoids of the gas supply safety switch. I saw online you said there should be 216 ohms on both sides. Would this be my problem? I cannot access my spark module easily so I wanted to ask you first before I attempt the spark module test.

  • Gene // Jun 18, 2015 at 4:29 pm

    Hello James.

    Sorry for the delay.

    In order to provide most accurate advice I need you to answer on a few more questions. Unplug the range for a few minutes. Plug it back and wait 2-3 minutes. Turn on any surface burner.

    Did it ignite and light properly?

    Turn the oven on bake?

    Can you here a clicking sound?

    Turn the oven on broil.

    Did it click?

    Thank you.

    Gene.

  • Barry // Jun 20, 2015 at 3:30 pm

    Hi, Gene,

    Not long after my last post, I located the aforementioned tech sheets. They were, in fact, behind the bottom grill, as you mentioned. I just didn’t realize they were in the _back_ of the grill 🙂

    So, I was able to perform the first seven steps of the diagnostic procedures, as requested. The results are as follows:

    Refrigerator Diagnostic Statuses

    Step | Component | Status
    1 | FC thermistor | 01 = Pass
    2 | RC thermistor | 01 = Pass
    3 | Evaporator fan motor and Air baffle motor | 01 = Fan ON. Air baffle is open, 02 = Fan ON. Air Baffle is closed, 01, etc., cycling every 3-5 seconds
    4 | Compressor/Condenser Fan Motor | 01 = ON
    5 | N/A
    6 | Defrost heater/Bi-metal | 01 = Bimetal Closed
    7 | Defrost Mode | 01 = ADC ON

    Please let me know if you need any more information to diagnose the issue.

    Thanks again for your help.

    Barry

  • frank // Jul 8, 2015 at 12:56 pm

    Need help on customer’s GE washer WJRE5550K2WW Keeps going through rinse cycle won’t go to spin light on motor steady (one sec. on 1 off) tried field serv mode but can’t get to knob pos 2,3 etc. any help?? tonerman2010@aol.com

  • Gene // Jul 9, 2015 at 12:52 pm

    Hello Frank.

    Sorry for the delay.

    Very likely the control board has failed.

    The part number for the control board is wh12x10439

    Thank you.

    Gene.

  • Barry // Jul 9, 2015 at 1:08 pm

    Hi, Gene,

    Sorry to bug you again. I’m still waiting for a response to my most recent post above.

    Thanks for your time.

    Barry

  • Gene // Jul 9, 2015 at 2:21 pm

    Hi, Barry.

    Sorry, somehow I missed your last reply.

    Very likely the problem is a broken door inside the air diffuser (damper). Air baffle motor tests OK, but the door can be failed open. The only way how to figure it out is to remove the air diffuser (damper) and inspect the door. If it’s dislodged or broken, the air diffuser would need to be replaced.

    1. Disconnect power to the refrigerator.
    2. Open the water filter door and remove the filter.
    3. Open the air filter door and remove the filter.
    4. Remove the ¼” screw securing the air damper cover to the cabinet.
    5. Remove the air damper cover.
    6. Remove the ¼” screw securing the air filter housing to the cabinet and remove.
    7. Disconnect the wiring harness and remove the air damper assembly.

    The part number for the air diffuser is w10699909

    Good luck.

    Gene.

  • Barry // Jul 23, 2015 at 8:57 pm

    Hi, Gene,

    Well, you were dead-on relative to the air diffuser (damper). When I went to remove the old one, a couple of broken pieces fell out of the unit, including a very thin spring which was now in two parts. Once the new diffuser was in place, though, all is well on the fridge side. Thanks so much.

    The ice maker is a bit of a different story at this point. I did replace the receiver board as suggested. Initially, the LED on the board lit up and blinked–looked promising. However, after everything was buttoned up, the unit produced no ice. I even gave it a few days, in case things had been frozen up due to the fridge side overcooling. However, even now, many days later, still no ice. Any recommendations as to where to look next?

    Thanks again for all your help.

    Barry

  • Barry // Jul 31, 2015 at 8:40 pm

    Gene,

    A bit of additional information regarding the icemaker: After a few more days have passed, the unit has produced one shallow batch of ice cubes. However, that is all it has done. No other ice yielded.

    Please advise as to next steps when you next have a moment. Thanks much! 🙂

    Barry

  • Leland // Aug 25, 2015 at 7:55 pm

    Hi Gene.

    Thank you for your advise and helpful responses on APP forum. I’m been unsuccessful at diagnosing my problem and hoping you can provide some additional guidance.

    I have a GE PSS25NGNAWW side by side refrigerator freezer and fridge temps are increasing and not going back down to their set values. There is frost all over the evaporator coils.

    Continuity Tests:
    – J9 to J7 pin 9 = 0 ohms on 20 ohm scale
    – J1 pin 4 and 5 = 0 ohms on 20K and 200K scale
    – J1 pin 3 and 5 = 0 ohms on 20K and 200K scale
    – across the defrost heater = 0 ohms on 20 ohm scale
    – defrost thermostat – 0 ohms in ice water and out (below 70 degrees air)

    From the service manual, self diagnostic tests:
    – 0-7 shows all 5 thermistors passed
    – 1-4 defrost test does not appear to have melted any frost (door was closed for 5 minutes after test initiated).

    With J9 unplugged and J7 unplugged, and the refrigrator plugged in, VAC across the J9 pin and the J7 9 pin was 0 Volts.

    What are my next steps?

  • Leland // Aug 25, 2015 at 7:58 pm

    clarification:
    continuity tests were not on the pins on the main board but across the wires on the connectors.

    The VAC test was done across the pins on the main board.

  • Leland // Sep 5, 2015 at 12:17 pm

    I replaced the main board:

    VAC across J9 pin and J7-9 pin was 119 VAC
    VAC across J8 pin and J7-9 pin was 118 VAC
    VAC across J11 pin and J7-9 pin was 1.5 VAC

    Not sure why the J11 Line and J7-9 Common is only 1.5 volts but it appears the board is producing 120VAC needed for the heater.

    Not sure if I need to replace thermistors since their was no resistance across the wires even thought he 1-4 diagnostic shows all 5 thermistors passed.

    Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

  • Gene // Sep 6, 2015 at 9:06 pm

    Hi Leland,

    Thank you for your question.

    How the refrigerator is doing now?

    I hope the new control board fixed the problem. I do not think anything wrong is with the thermistors. I’m afraid you did not do the continuity tests in right way.

    Gene.

  • Jeff // Sep 6, 2015 at 1:42 pm

    Gene I have a ge artica refrigerator pss29mgmb freezer will not go below 60 ran a diagnostic test on it falls the freezer thermistor 05 is the code, replaced the thermistor still gets the error code check the low voltage at pin J1-5 and J4-3 5 volts there the J1 pins all have various voltages but not quite what they are suppose to be J1 pin 1 1.61 volts, pin 2 1.62 volts, pin 3 1.98 volts, pin 4 1.70 volts compressor is running and ice forms on the first pay off the evaporator. Any suggestions. The trouble shooting tree says to check for continuity but how do you do that

  • Gene // Sep 6, 2015 at 8:44 pm

    Hello Jeff,

    If the main control board reeds the freezer thermistor as not functional, even the thermistor has been just replaced, then very likely the main control board itself has failed. In such situation you may want to install a new control board and give it a try. If you will order the part from AppliancePArtsPros.com and it would not fix the problem, you can easy return it with full refund.

    The part number for the main control board is wr55x10942

    Thank you for your question.

    Good luck.

    Gene.

  • Barry // Sep 7, 2015 at 1:34 pm

    Hi, Gene,

    I figured I would update this thread with my latest experience. As it turns out, some three to four weeks after I had replaced the icemaker’s receiver board, the icemaker finally started producing ice regularly and in great abundance! Early on, given that the fridge had been running very cold and freezing everything, I had wondered whether the water line to the icemaker had been frozen and then needed time to thaw. I don’t know if this was the solution ultimately. However, this was one rare case where leaving something alone actually caused it to fix itself!

    Thanks again for all your help.

    Barry

  • Gene // Sep 7, 2015 at 8:56 pm

    Hi Barry,

    You are welcome.

    I’m glad your refrigerator is back in business and all problems gone.

    Thank you for the feedback.

    Gene.

  • Brian // Sep 13, 2015 at 2:20 pm

    Gene
    I have a Kenmore Dryer 110.722 the burner only fires intermittently. I have tested all fuses in the back of the unit and all have continuity. I can see the igniter glow and sometime it fires and sometimes it does not. Could it be the gas valve coil? I do sometime hear a rattle light something wants to happen but not always. Also I think my timer might be bad as the Auto Dry part of the timer does not count down however Timed Dry high heat does. Is this possible. I would appreciate any advice.
    Thanks

  • Gene // Sep 14, 2015 at 6:02 pm

    Hello Brian,

    Thank you for your question.

    Per your description very likely the cause of the problem is a faulty gas valve coils.

    The part number for the coil kit is 279834

    Good luck.

    Gene.

  • Brian // Sep 15, 2015 at 5:37 pm

    Gene
    The coil kit worked and they were here in one day.
    Great advice and great service.
    Thank You!!!

  • Gene // Sep 15, 2015 at 6:43 pm

    You are welcome, Brian.

    I’m glad your dryer is back in business.

  • todd // Sep 17, 2015 at 2:03 pm

    all the switches have been replaced or tested fine. No luck. Still feels like a blown internal fuse though I know it does not have one…

  • Gene // Sep 17, 2015 at 7:31 pm

    Hello Todd,

    In order to provide most accurate advice I need the complete model number of the trash compactor.

    Thank you,
    Gene.

  • todd // Sep 18, 2015 at 5:18 am

    kucc151gss1 Kitchenaid TC

  • Gene // Sep 18, 2015 at 4:38 pm

    Hi Todd,

    The next step is to check the drive motor.

    The first step is to test the motor overload protector for continuity.
    DO NOT remove the white or blue wire coming out of the motor.
    Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the (BU) blue wire.
    Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the (W) white wire.
    If there is no continuity, the drive motor is bad and would need to be replaced.
    Otherwise check the motor start and run windings as described in the tech sheet.
    If any of them would not pass the test, the motor would need to be replaced.

    The motor part number is w10439651

    Gene.

  • todd // Sep 26, 2015 at 9:49 am

    Hello Gene,
    Thanks again for all your help! As we began opening the housing for the motor on the back of the unit I noticed some burn marks on top of the housing screw. I thought that strange because the housing screws were not anywhere near any wiring of the motor unit. As I thought about it more and what would cause this type of arcing on the screw, I figured that it had to come from a large power source.
    I examined the power cord and found an area on the cord that with a small screw-shaped cut into the insulation. The cord had had been pinned behind the unit during installation, eventually working its way through the insulation and then into the wires causing a short. The connection interrupted power to the main unit, thus causing the unit to completely stop functioning.
    We replaced the power cord and we’re back in business!
    Thanks again!

  • Mike Y // Sep 30, 2015 at 2:04 pm

    Hi. I have a Kenmore Series 70 gas dryer. When it is first turned on, the igniter glows and the burner comes on for about a minute. It then shuts off. A few minutes later, the igniter glows and the burner comes again. It repeats this process for about 15-20 minutes and then just the igniter glows but no ignition happens. I have just replaced both of the gas valve coils, but it is still doing the same thing. There is also the subtle smell of natural gas in the laundry room which both my wife and I have noticed. Do you think the gas valve itself has gone bad?

  • Gene // Oct 1, 2015 at 6:46 pm

    Hello Mike Y,

    Thank you for your question.

    Per your problem description, especially because of the gas smell, the gas valve is the first suspect. If you need the correct part number, please reply with the complete model number of the dryer.

    Gene.

  • Dany // Oct 29, 2015 at 4:32 am

    Hi, I have a Frigidaire Gallery oven, Mod :PGLEF387AS4, have a problem with setting temperature for the oven, numbers on the panel all work, but can’t set more than 290 degrees, if I set 291 and up it gives me an error. when I let it run at 290, it seems over heating, burning stuff as it is 400 degrees. don’t know if it’s the sensor or an electronic problem . any idea please. Thanks

  • Gene // Oct 29, 2015 at 4:06 pm

    Hello Dany,

    Very likely you somehow programmed the oven control to display temperatures in Celsius instead of Fahrenheit. To tell if your range is set for Fahrenheit or Celsius push Bake/Cure button. If the temperature display is 350º, your range is set for Fahrenheit. If the temperature display is 176º,
    your range is set for Celsius.
    Push and hold Broil/Grill button until a beep sounds. If your range was originally set to Fahrenheit the letter C will appear; if your range has been changed to Celsius the letter F will appear. Release the pad; the time of day will be displayed.

    Thank you for your question.

    Gene.

  • Rodd // Dec 11, 2015 at 7:06 pm

    Gene,
    I have a Kenmore gas dryer, Model 110.96742701
    The dryer starts and sometimes the the flame will start once or if i tap on the gas valve body with the end of a screwdriver, it will click numerous times and then it may ignite the flame.
    The items that I have replaced today are, new valve coils and new flame igniter. I have verified continuity for the Thermofuse, Thermo cut off, Flame sensor and the High limit thermostat.
    All the sensors seem to check out fine.
    However, when I run a Manual Diagnostic it gives me a code of F:01 which is for the Machine Control Electronics.
    My short questions is: Could my circuit board be bad and not allowing the flame to stay lit and heat up?
    Would I visually see a problem with the circuit board?
    Thanks in advance for your response

  • Gene // Dec 11, 2015 at 8:45 pm

    Hello Rodd,

    Thank you for your question.

    If the igniter glows but the flame (gas flow) starts only after you tap on the gas valve, most likely the gas valve itself has gone bad. It has nothing to do with the Machine Control board. In such situation the gas valve assembly would need to be replaced.
    If you order the part from AppliancePartsPros.com (by clicking on the part number below) and it would not fix the problem, you can return it with no questions. So you have nothing to lose.

    The part number for the gas valve assembly is w10118347

    Good luck,
    Gene.

  • Peter // Dec 14, 2015 at 9:52 am

    I have a problem with a GE trash compactor, model # GCG1580L0SS. The motor does not want to start. It sounds like it is stuck. What I noticed is that the motor start switch, mounted on the motor assembly, does not seem to home itself after each cycle. There are two contact tips that need to come back together at the end of each cycle so that a new cycle can begin. At times the tips do not close all the way, then the motor will not start again. If I move the gear until the tips come together, then I can start a new cycle. Any thoughts on how to fix the start switch on the motor so I do not have to replace the entire motor?

  • Gene // Dec 14, 2015 at 7:28 pm

    Hello Peter,

    Thank you for your question.

    The motor start/centrifugal switch is not repairable and would need to be replaced. Sad news because GE does not sell it separate. You would need to replace the whole motor which comes as a part of motor and drive gear kit. I’m not sure if your trash compactor worth such repairs because this kit is expensive. AppliancePartsPros.com sells it for $269.34

    The part number for the motor and drive gear kit is wc26x10006

    Good luck.

    Gene.

  • Peter // Dec 15, 2015 at 3:53 pm

    Thank you Gene. Any thoughts on rebuilding the motor? I am trying to sell the home and I want to put everything into good repair for the next owner if possible. A new unit costs in excess of $800, so $269 is still cheaper, albeit expensive.

  • Gene // Dec 15, 2015 at 6:41 pm

    You are welcome. Try to search electrical shops who does motor rebuilding.

    Good luck.

    Have a nice holidays!

    Gene.

  • Bill // Dec 20, 2015 at 8:27 am

    I have a GE Profile Double Oven that is consistently displaying an F7 error code. Model# JKP56S0D1SS….need some help for the fix. It would be most appreciated!!!

  • Gene // Dec 22, 2015 at 8:25 pm

    Hello Bill,

    Thank you for your question.

    The cause of the problem with your oven can be a shorted keypad or a faulty electronic control (ERC). In order to determine which part would need to be replaced you will need to open the control panel and unplug the control panel ribbon cable from the control slot. The complete disassembly instructions you can find in the article “GE oven error code “F7” and how to fix it”

    After the ribbon cable was removed, make sure no wires are touching each other or any metal surface, and restore the power to the oven. If the error code still exists, the control board would need to be replaced. Otherwise the control panel is the culprit.

    The part number for the control board (ERC) is wb27t10346

    The part number for the control panel is wb36t10517

    You can order a part by clicking on the part number.

    Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

    Gene.

  • Mark // Dec 24, 2015 at 6:03 am

    Gene,
    I have model jdp36gp GE electric range. F2 light has shown up sporadically during cleaning cycle and bake cycles. Any ideas?
    Merry Christmases!

  • Gene // Dec 27, 2015 at 7:07 pm

    Hello Mark,

    I hope your Christmas was as merry as my!

    Did the actual over temperature condition occurred during the bake cycle?

    If not, then you have to measure the resistance of the oven temperature sensor at the ERC plug. The normal reading suppose to be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature. If the reading is incorrect, check the temperature sensor harness and measure its resistance at the sensor plug. If the reading is incorrect, the oven temperature sensor would need to be replaced. If the reading at the ERC plug is correct then the ERC has gone bad. Unfortunately this part is no longer available.

    The oven temperature sensor part number is 12001656

    Happy New Year!

    Gene.

  • john // Apr 16, 2016 at 9:39 am

    Hi, I have a Frigidaire PLEFMZ99ECC stove and am receiving an F7 & 12 codes. The warming plate works, my oven seems to work, but I have the flashing codes and the burners won’t turn on.

  • Gene // Apr 17, 2016 at 10:20 pm

    Hello John,

    Thank you for your question.

    “F12” very seldom fault code. The correction recommended by Frigidaire is to disconnect the power from the range for 30 seconds and reapply the power. If the fault returns, the EOC would need to be replaced. You also may want to order the new overlay.

    The EOC part number is 316418704

    The overlay part number is 316419700

    You can order the parts by clicking on the part number.

    Good luck.

    Gene.

  • john // Apr 18, 2016 at 4:10 am

    Hi, thank you for the information. What would cause the “F7”, is this also related to the two parts you mention to order?

  • Gene // Apr 18, 2016 at 4:58 pm

    Hi John,

    Where exactly were “F7” and “F12” fault codes shown? You did not mention it in your original post and I assumed you were talking about oven control display.

    Gene.

  • john // Apr 18, 2016 at 5:14 pm

    Hi, if you look from left to right on the panel with the clock and controls… there are four display screens for the burners….

    Left Front Burner – F7 Left Rear Burner – 12
    Right Rear Burner – F7 Right Front Burner – 12

  • john // Apr 18, 2016 at 5:39 pm

    I forgot to add… The warmer plate in the back center of the stove, works, the oven works, the clock works… its just the burners that will not function.

  • Gene // Apr 19, 2016 at 4:16 pm

    Hello John,

    “F7-12” fault code shown on the surface units displays means the control senses the potentiometer for LF burner is wrong value. Such fault code can be caused by the faulty potentiometer or faulty User Interface Board.

    The part number for the LF potentiometer is 316239605

    The part number for the UIB is 316426400

    You can find the complete troubleshooting instructions in my reply addressed to Becque Ford: http://tinyurl.com/hm72hfd

    Good luck.

    Gene.

Leave a Comment