AskGene.com

41 responses so far ↓

• Harold // Aug 16, 2007 at 12:43 pm

  Hello Sir,
  I have a Whirlpool model LGN2000JQ0 with a heating problem. It runs perfectly but the heating cycle lasts for about 20 sec then shuts off ; not allowing it to heat up enough to dry the clothes. Please help !!

• Tim // Aug 16, 2007 at 8:58 pm

  I saw on another forum you gave someone help changing the fuse in an old maytag washer. I changed my fuse a couple of weeks ago for the first time ever and it blew again yesterday. Do you have any suggestions as to what may be causing the fuse to blow (approx 14 years old) I love these old maytags and really do not want a new washer b/c I do not think they make them like they used to.

• Gene // Aug 17, 2007 at 3:14 am

  Hello Harold,

  Most likely the problem with your dryer is insufficient air flow due to clogged up vent and/or blower wheel. More specific information about such problem and how to diagnose and solve it you can find here: http://www.askgene.com/2007/03/15/clothes-dryer/what-to-do-if-clothes-still-dump-after-the-cycle-is-done/

  Thanks for stopping by. Please, keep me updated.
  Gene.

• Gene // Aug 17, 2007 at 4:06 am

  Hello Tim,

  After you open the control panel you’ll see the bracket with the fuse (#19 on the break down diagram), the check switch (#5 on the break down diagram) and the lid switch (#16 on the break down diagram). Also you’ll see the unbalance lever assembly (#31 on the break down diagram).
  Most likely the problem with your washer caused by bad switches and/or not adjusted properly (might be broken) unbalanced lever assembly. Unfortunately I’m not able to tell you exactly which part is bad without seeing the washer.

  - Here are the break down diagram: http://tinyurl.com/2jlzyp

  Thanks for stoping by. Pleae, keep me updated.
  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Sandro // Aug 26, 2007 at 12:48 pm

  Hello Gene,

  I have a whirlpool washer model LXR7244JQO
  I need to replace the motor coupling (for direct drive washer) Part number ap3963893 any tips on how to get started.

• Gene // Aug 27, 2007 at 12:59 pm

  Hello Sandro,

  You can find the complete instructions here: http://www.askgene.com/2007/02/07/whirlpool-kenmore-washer-direct-drive/how-to-replace-the-motor-drive-coupling-on-whirlpool-direct-drive-washer/

  Thanks for stopping by.
  Please, keep me updated.
  Good luck.
  Gene.

• carlo // Sep 14, 2007 at 7:10 pm

  i need to rplace a lid switch on my washer machine the model is 1101321200 kenmore

• Gene // Sep 20, 2007 at 5:22 pm

  Hello Carlo,

  To get the access to the lid switch you have to remove the cabinet: http://www.askgene.com/2007/01/26/whirlpool-kenmore-washer-direct-drive/how-to-remove-the-cabinet-on-whirlpool-direct-drive-washer-2/

  The new lid switch you can buy here: http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=SrmyP8LkIos&offerid=122738.611763731&type=10&subid=

  Please, keep me updated.
  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Jim // Feb 15, 2008 at 10:03 pm

  Gene,
  Very informative site. I have a question regarding the defrost cycle (non electronic device) When the refrigerator cycles to defrost, should the defrost heating element stay on the entire time, or does the defrost thermostat regulate the amount of current the heating element receives based on the temperature of the defrost thermostat?

  Thanks

  Jim

• Dan // Feb 18, 2008 at 4:44 pm

  Gene,
  I have a Bosch dishwasher that will fill and drain but will not wash. After it fills it is quiet until the time passes in the wash cycle and then it drains and refills for the next wash cycle. Is this the control panel or the motor? The motor does not make any noise during the wash cycle.
  Thanks for your help.

• Gene // Feb 19, 2008 at 5:51 am

  Hi Dan,

  Most likely the problem caused by the motor and pump assembly.

  In order to provide more accurate advise I need the complete model number of the dishwasher. You can find it on the right side of the door.

  Gene.

• Gene // Mar 16, 2008 at 11:37 pm

  Hi Dan,

  Remove the bottom panel and listen to the circulation pump motor while the control calls for wash.

  If it makes a humming noise then the motor should be good and you can repair the old pump, using the repair kit.

  If it does not make any noises then check for 120VAC coming to the motor.

  If there is 120VAC then the motor is bad and the whole circulation pump assembly has to be replaced.

  If there is no 120VAC then you have to check the motor wire harness and, if there is nothing wrong, replace the control module.

  – The circulation pump repair kit you can buy here: http://tinyurl.com/2pf3hh

  – The circulation pump assembly you can buy here: http://tinyurl.com/3ahecn

  – The control module you can buy here: http://tinyurl.com/2ltgkn

  Here are the break down diagrams for the Bosch dishwasher model SHU3302UC: http://tinyurl.com/327xx3

  Let me know if you will need a further assistance.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Jim // Aug 5, 2008 at 4:52 am

  Gene, I am in Orange County as well. Our Microwave gave an “f3″ error and my online research shows it is a touch pad issue. I was considering ordering the touch pad and attempting to install myself. I am so-so at do it yourself repairs. do you think this is a good idea and is it doable by an amateur? thanks, Jim

• Gene // Aug 5, 2008 at 5:32 am

  Hi Jim,

  You were right, the problem is a stuck pad(s) on the key panel. This part is not too difficult to replace yourself.
  For more accurate advise I need the complete model number of the microwave.

  Thanks for stopping by.
  Gene.

• Lori Lee // Sep 23, 2008 at 12:56 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I have read some responses of yours on an appliance forum and you are a big help to many people! I need some help with my whirlpool washer. I have a top loading lsr8010pt0 model that leaves clothes saturated after the cycle is complete. you can see the fabric softner still in the “hole” in middle of tub, as it is not spinning out. i dont know if it’s not spinning and just draining water, or if it is spinning but not enough. i have done the troubleshooting steps on the whirlpool website and nothing works. right now i have a washer full of sopping wet clothes! on one of your posts you gave some instructions for checking to see if it was spinning and checking some parts but as i tried to open the links they weren’t there. could you please tell me what could be the problem and how i might fix it without the cost of a service man? i live in indiana.

  thanks Gene!

• Gene // Sep 23, 2008 at 5:55 pm

  Hi Lori,

  The first thing I would do is pull up the Fabric Softener Dispenser and thoroughly clean it.

  Use just a little bit of the fabric softener and decrease amount of the detergent.

  Run the washer without clothes and soap, using a highest water level, to clean out all suds.

  If it would not help then remove the washer cabinet and perform troubleshooting. You can find the disassembly instructions in the article http://www.askgene.com/2007/01/26/whirlpool-kenmore-washer-direct-drive/how-to-remove-the-cabinet-on-whirlpool-direct-drive-washer-2/ on this site.

  Let me know if you’ll need a further assistance.

  Good luck.
  Gene.

• Frank // Sep 23, 2008 at 10:12 pm

  Hi Gene,
  I read your advice over another forum re. stove sparks continuously. I have a Viking 24″ single wok range top that sparks non-stop as long as it is plug in. The spark module used is the same as Whirlpool 4454392 (Viking PA020020). Wondering how would one determine whether the module or the ignitor (or both) is faulty? Also, this module could be used for 4 burner type, would it make any different if I switch the output wire to a different terminal from the module? Last question, in the auto re-ignite system, how does the module know if the gas is lighted or not (it re-ignites when if the fire is blown off and the valve is on)?
  Many Thanks,
  Frank
  BC, Canada

• Gene // Sep 24, 2008 at 12:47 am

  Hi Frank,

  You can switch the output wire to a different terminal only together with the associated input wire. Both these wires must be connected to the input and output terminals, marked with the same numbers or symbols. Any not used output terminals should be grounded.

  You can learn how the re-ignition system works from one of my previous posts on Appliance Parts Pros Forum  

  If you need a new spark module, you can buy it here: 4454392

  Thanks for stopping by.
  Gene.

• Shawn Seager // Dec 2, 2008 at 6:50 pm

  Gene, you are a Genius! Thank you for this free post, it saved my thanksgiving dinner! I had ordered a ECM and touch panel, got to this same problem with the extra wire with bad install instruction, Wednesday last week just hours before the bird was to go in. Thankfully I found your post below that saved our holiday dinner.

  Wishing you and your family happiness this holiday season, Shawn – Sake Lake City, Utah.

  01-17-2008, 03:05 PM

  Senior Expert
  Forum.AppliancePartsPros.com Volunteer

  Join Date: Jul 2007
  Location: Orange County, California

  I believe the black wire you are talking about (labeled B-12) and originally connected to the “C” terminal on the old control board is in L1 circuit and should be connected to either COM0 or COM1 terminals on the new control board.

  It suppose to be 4 black wires, providing L1 power.

  They should be connected to: the COM terminal on the BROIL1 relay, the COM terminal on the BROIL2 relay, the COM0 terminal on the right side and the COM1 terminal at the same place.

  Check all these wires for continuity across each other.

  Gene.
  __________________
  Professional appliance repair in Orange County, California.
  Old 01-17-2008, 04:11 PM
  zambojmc
  Junior Member

  Join Date: Jan 2008
  Posts: 2
  zambojmc is on a distinguished road
  Thumbs up Thanks …
  I was hoping that would be the case, and greatly appreciate your help.

  At the cost of those control boards, you sure don’t want to fry one.

  My wife thanks you, also! The best of luck to you and yours.

  zambojmc

• Gene // Dec 2, 2008 at 8:26 pm

  You are always welcome, Shawn.
  Nice Holidays to you and your family.

  Thanks for stopping by.
  Gene.

• John // Jan 17, 2009 at 7:51 pm

  Gene, you saved my family about $200 and the pain of having to hand-wash a ton of dishes. Your advice on the control module solder issue with our Bosch dishwasher was dead on! A little board-scratching and some new solder did the trick. I found your advice in some repair thread that you commented on. If you have a loved one who might be interested in a tutu, leotards, or any other dancewear, I’ll be sure to give you a super discount if you order at http://e-dancewear.com . Thanks again Gene!!
  John

• Gene // Jan 17, 2009 at 11:49 pm

  You are welcome, John. I’m glad you were able to fix it.

  Thanks for stopping by.
  Gene.

• Jim Stoute // Jun 22, 2009 at 9:05 pm

  Gene, I have read many other entries, great help!
  Now I need some ..GE Refrigerator w/ Ice & Wtr. Dispenser..Mod.PSS26SHRD. Stopped Dispensing Ice..Replaced solenoid valve & actuator switch, everything else works O.K. Select dispense ice, lights dim for ~6 sec. then reset to nornal, you can hear the ice dispense door closing. I disconnected the motor, same symptoms…HELP. Thanks, JIM

• Gene // Jun 23, 2009 at 2:36 am

  Hi Jim,

  Most likely the problem with you refrigerator is a bad main control board on the back of the refrigerator.
  The part number for the main control board is AP4297272 and you can buy it here: http://tinyurl.com/qe54y8

  Thanks for stopping by,
  Gene.

• Jim Stoute // Jun 24, 2009 at 7:44 pm

  GENE,
  Ordered the board yesterday about noon, it came in today about 2:30 pm and at 2:50 the ice dispensing problem was fixed (a much used feature here in Orlando, Fl.). Love it when a plan comes together, Thanks Gene.
  JIM

• Gene // Jun 25, 2009 at 2:33 am

  You are welcome Jim.

  I’m glad you were able to fix it.

  Gene.

• Eric // Aug 17, 2010 at 11:42 pm

  I have hotpoint model HSS25IFMDWW. Water line had been shut off due to a leak. Fixed leak, turned water back on and everything was fine. I figured it would take a while before it started to make ice. I checked it three hours later, and it had produced some ice. Got up at 0300 to get a drink of water and the floor was flooded. Water keeps pouring into the icemaker. Shut off the water supply. Is this a water valve problem?

• Gene // Aug 18, 2010 at 4:22 am

  Hi Eric,

  Most likely the problem is a bad (stuck open) water inlet valve. The correction is to replace it.

  The water inlet valve part number is WR57X10032 and you can order it by clicking on the part number.

  Gene.

• Fred // Aug 20, 2010 at 1:26 pm

  Hi Gene,
  Thank you for your help on my estate gas dryer Mod# TGDX640PQ1 yesterday, it was the gas valve coils. I was able to use the coils from my other gas dryer that has a burned up motor(they use the same part number) which helped a lot because I am out of work and money is a big issue. Thank you again, Fred

• Gene // Aug 20, 2010 at 8:41 pm

  You are welcome Fred.

  I’m glad you were able to fix it with no cost to you.

  Gene.

• Michael // Dec 1, 2011 at 7:25 pm

  Gene, The fan in my side by side fridge/freezer, (ge model gss22jepa) is not running. It is receiving spurious power as it tries to turn but then just vibrates. If I spin it, it stays running for a bit, though erratically, then it quits. Help.

  Michael

• Gene // Dec 1, 2011 at 7:54 pm

  Hi Michael,

  I’m assuming you meant the evaporator fan which is located inside the freezer. In such situation the best solution is to replace the fan motor and the main control board (on the back of the refrigerator) together. It is proven by hundreds of repairs and recommended by GE.

  The part number for the GE refrigerator evaporator fan motor is AP3191003

  

  The part number for the GE refrigerator main control board is AP4436216

  

  Gene.

• Michael // Dec 1, 2011 at 7:57 pm

  Gene!

  Thank you so much! I’ve nursed this old fridge along for several years now. Not ready to give up yet!

  Michael

• Michael // Dec 1, 2011 at 8:01 pm

  Gene,

  another quick question, does it matter if the door is open or closed with respect to the fan working?

  Thanks again!

  Michael

• Gene // Dec 1, 2011 at 8:11 pm

  No Michael it does not, but if you would like to be absolutely indubitable and still work with the door open, then just tape in the door switch.

  Gene.

• Paul // Dec 13, 2011 at 7:52 am

  Hi, Gene, under topic ” freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm” in the applicancepartspros forum you state for a fridge like mine GE STS22ICMBRWW, I assume, that the resistance between the wire for the “defrost heater” terminal J9 and the neutral orange wire (pin 9 on the J7 connector) should be about 22 ohms with the freezer cold. I get a reading of about 33 ohms. Does that difference of about 11 ohms indicate a problem? Should I replace anything besides the motherboard? The heater? Anything?

  Thanks very much.

  Paul

• Gene // Dec 14, 2011 at 7:12 am

  Hi Paul,

  The test result you posted is good for your refrigerator. That means there is nothing wrong with the defrost heater and/or defrost thermostat. Can you describe exactly what is wrong with your refrigerator please?

  Gene.

• Diane // Dec 14, 2011 at 7:15 am

  The upper wash arm does not work again. So I purchased another. I installed anouther middle arm and middle spray arm seal. It still does not work. I can move the wash arm to any position in the dishwasher, shut the door, letting the cycle continue to wash and when I open the door, it will always be perpendicular to the door. Once it gets there, it will not move anymore. Also I don’t think there is very much water coming out of it (not enough to spray)

  Any other suggestions you have to fix this problem would be most appreciated.

  whirlpool dishwasher Model # GU1200

• Gene // Dec 14, 2011 at 11:39 am

  Hi Diane,

  Very likely the problem is a bad chopper. It’s shown as #6 on the diagram

  You can find more information as well as instructions in the AppliancePartsPros.com forum

  Gene..

• Kirstie // Dec 14, 2011 at 12:30 pm

  Hello,

  I’m hoping you can help me. My oven quite working the other night when I was trying to warm something up. The broiler and oven do not work, but the burners do. It is a gas stove, and has no plug ins, but I have lit many gas stoves in my life, and for the life of me, I can NOT find any way to light this one. I don’t see any place where there is a pilot on it to be lit.
  With Christmas coming up, I’m hoping this is something I can fix simply, since I will need the oven for dinner and can not afford to replace it during the holidays.
  It looks like a long pipe running from the bottom of the range up to the oven itself, and it has a round valve at the bottom of the pipe (I assume this is where the gas comes in. There is no spot that would be large enough for the flame there, as in my other ovens though.
  I’m a woman, and fairly handy with minor home repairs, but I had to ask my brother in law for help. He looked at it and said it was the strangest thing he’s ever seen and he has no idea how to light it either.

  Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

  Thank you in advance.

  -Kirstie S

• Gene // Dec 14, 2011 at 5:57 pm

  Hi Kristie,

  You forgot to post the model number of your range. Without this information I’m not able to provide any accurate advice.

  Gene.

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